Engine Displacement in Standard Form	Analog System(BTDC)		Digital System (BTDC)
	Millimeters	Thousandths*	Millimeters	Thousandths*
50cc	1.0 to 1.9mm
60/65/80cc w/4642000029 CDI Module	1.4 to 1.6mm	54 - 62th	0.8 - 0 mm	31th
60/65/80cc w/537202 CDI Module			0.5mm	19th
KTM 65 #82145 Kit w/#537200 CDI Module			.3  to 0 mm	11 – 0th
KX 65    #82105 Kit w/#537200 CDI Module			.3  to 0 mm	11 – 0th
90cc	1.8mm
125cc	1.2  to 1.4mm	46 – 54th	1.0  to 1.2	39 – 46th
175cc	2.2  to  2.4mm	85 – 93th
250cc	1.8  to 2.2mm	70 – 85th	0.8  to 1.0mm	31 – 39th
Open Class Engines	2.2  to 2.4 mm	85 – 93th
Twin Cylinder Engines **	2.0 mm

Modified engines (higher compression) will need to use timing that is retarded from the above figures.
*Thousandths can be figured by multiplying the recommended millimeters by .039
**Any modifications to the engine, change of carburetor or pipe will necessitate experimenting with the recommended timing specification of 2.0mm.

Section 5: TIMING PROCEDURE:  Except for a very few PVL applications, no keyway is supplied. Keyways and woodruff keys are utilized by manufacturers for ease of timing during mass production. The woodruff key does not hold the rotor to the crank! If your PVL system has no keyway, then no woodruff key is used. Timing the PVL ignition to your engine will require the use of a dial indicator type timing gauge to measure the position of the piston. By aligning the marks on both the rotor and the stator, and measuring the position of the piston Before Top Dead Center (BTDC), you will be able to set the timing to the needs of your engine. Before installing the rotor, clean both  the bore of the rotor and the stub of the crankshaft with contact cleaner, acetone, or other suitable product to be sure that it is clean and free from grease, oil, or other residue. With a dial indicator in the spark plug hole, rotate the crankshaft in the direction of the engine’s rotation until the piston reaches Top Dead Center. Turn the crankshaft backwards until the piston reaches the timing position that you wish to use.  Install the rotor to the crankshaft so that the timing mark on the rotor lines up with the appropriate timing mark on the stator.

Single Cylinder Engine Timing Marks: NOTE: Many of the PVL stators have timing marks on them for either direction of rotation. You will be using the timing mark that is closest to the arrow on the stator that indicates the direction of rotation that your engine requires. Backfiring will occur if you use the incorrect timing mark. The timed interval between ignition and when the piston reaches TDC in a cylinder is expressed in degrees of flywheel (crankshaft) rotation. Because the spark is always fired before the piston reaches TDC, the timing is considered “advanced”. The greater the number of degrees before TDC the spark is fired, the more advanced the ignition timing is for that cylinder. When the number of degrees at which the spark is fired is reduced, the timing has been “retarded”. It should be noted that even though the timing in a cylinder may have been retarded, the spark is still being fired before TDC and is still considered advanced, just not as much.

Twin Cylinder Engine Timing Marks: One of the timing marks on the stator assemblies is marked with a “T”. This mark should be used to set the timing of the ignition to the left cylinder of the engine. Done properly, the right cylinder will automatically be in time.

Once the rotor is in place, use a hammer handle or a plastic faced hammer to lightly tap on the face of the rotor to seat the taper. Place the two supplied washers on the crank and install the rotor nut, tightening to 30ft.lb. (or the manufacturer’s torque specification. Reset the piston to the chosen timing figure and check to see that the timing marks are still lined up. If not, simply loosen the stator mount screws and move the stator so that the marks are aligned. If the marks cannot be lined up with the piston at the chosen timing figure, the rotor will have to be removed and the procedure repeated. Use only the puller supplied with this ignition kit! Use of any other type puller could damage the rotor to where it would be rendered useless!

Section 6: MOUNTING THE COIL AND CDI MODULE: There are two versions of upper coils and CDI Modules in the PVL Electronic ignition line.  Your coil and CDI module may be one combined unit or two individual pieces. Refer to the chart on Page 4 of these instructions to identify your PVL components.

If the coil and CDI module are individual pieces, check to see if the coil will bolt directly to the chassis as it is made.  If it does not, it may be necessary to make a small tab that will extend the OEM mount.  In either situation, the coil will not work if the ground terminal at the end of the coil is not placed under the screw holding that end of the coil.  The CDI module itself can be mounted any place where a 6mm hole can be found that the wire from the module can be connected to the coil. The black wire from the CDI module must be grounded to a surface that has been sanded clean of any corrosion, rust and paint.

If the coil and CDI module are one combined unit, then the mounting may require modification in order to accommodate this piece. This modification can be as simple as drilling new holes or possibly having to cut off the original mount and welding on new mount. Whenever mounting the coil to a solid mount, it is absolutely essential that the coil mount bracket be in a vertical plane (straight up and down).  If the weight of the coil is allowed to hang from the bracket with the coil mounted sideways, the bracket will break away from the coil body. In applications where vibration levels are particularly high, it is recommended that the coil be rubber mounted or surrounded by foam and then wrapped with duct tape in order to minimize these vibrations. If a solid mount is not possible, you can mount the coil using any method that will securely hold the coil to the frame, such as tie wraps or duct tape in a foam cradle. The black wire with the ring terminal must be grounded to the frame of the machine or the engine. Make sure the grounding surface is clean of any corrosion, rust and paint. Connect the coil to the respective stator coil or coils, being sure that the stator wire terminals are connected to the correct terminals on the coils, blue wire to large spade and black wire to the small spade.

Once the coil is mounted, it will be connected to the magneto in one of two methods depending on the type of system.  The analog systems use a spade terminal type attachment, and the digital systems use a molded connector between the coil and the magneto.   The red wire exiting the coil or CDI module is to be used for the kill button wire. Any device suitable to carry current to ground should be sufficient for this job, but we recommend a device engineered for motorized vehicle use. WARNING!   Be sure that no wires will come in contact with the exhaust of your machine. If this happens, the insulation on the wires can melt through, resulting in a short and possibly damaging the ignition system.

Section 7: SPARK PLUGS: For an analog PVL ignition, it is not necessary to use resistor type spark plugs or resistor spark plug caps unless you are using some sort of microprocessor controlled data acquisition equipment such as a digital tachometer or exhaust gas temperature gauges. If you must use some sort of RFI suppression equipment, use only resistor plugs or resistor plug caps – never both! 

For an Analog version PVL ignition, we recommend using non-resistor fine wire or fine wire/precious metal type spark plugs, such as NGK brand plugs V or VX.  These spark plugs, like non-resistor caps, use less of the ignition’s energy to make the spark and thus, have a more powerful spark. If your machine requires the long reach type plugs, use the NGK EV or EVX type spark plug. For short reach, use the NGK HV, HVX or HIX type plugs. Most of the other plug manufacturers also have plugs like this in their product lines. If you must resort to using a resistor type plug, we recommend the NGK IX (short reach) or EIX (long reach) series. These resistor type plugs have the least amount of resistor in them. Do not use the G, GV, or S (standard) series type NGK plugs, as these type plugs require more of the ignition’s current to make the spark and will cause starting difficulties or no starting at all.

For a digital PVL ignition, you must use a resistor in the spark path. We recommend that you use a resistor type cap such as the 5K Ohm spark plug cap supplied with your PVL ignition, rather than using a resistor type spark plug.

Gap Setting: In engines that are very high compression, it is recommended that you use a plug gap of 0.020" – 0.022”. In extreme cases of engines with very high compression and running on alcohol or fuel, it may be necessary to bring the gap down as low as 0.018”.

Section 8:  SPARK PLUG CAPS: Included in this kit are non-resistor cap/caps for analog systems, resistor type caps for a digital systems The spark plug caps that are supplied with this PVL Ignition kit, although very economical in appearance, work very well. Digital version PVL ignitions require a resistor spark plug cap of 5K Ohm value, as is supplied with kit, to work correctly. A resistor cap is normally imprinted with the value (5K/5000 , etc.) and the symbol for Ohms (the Greek letter Omega, sort of an O with the bottom cut out and wings on each side of the cut).

The best method of installation is to strip back about 32mm of the wire and bend this portion of the wire over at 90 degrees to the insulated portion of the wire. Then, at a point about 1⁄4” back from the end of the insulated portion of the wire, press the pointed tang of the terminal spring through the insulation so that it contacts the wire on its way through the insulation. Use a pair of pliers to press the tang all the way down tight. Once the terminal is in place with the spring loop at the end of the wire, wrap the stripped portion of the wire around the end of the spring loop to insure contact. Spray a little contact cleaner on the insulation boot and quickly slide into place over the spring loop and wire. This assembly works very satisfactorily for off road use.

Section 9:  Kill Switches:  When using a tether switch on an ATV, you must use a separate tether for each high tension coil. A twin cylinder actually has two ignitions, so it is necessary to use either two separate shut off devices or a device that is capable of handling two separate circuits independent of one another. If you are using a toggle switch, you must use a double pole/single throw switch to keep the circuits separate during operation. The red wire exiting the coil or CDI module is to be used for the kill button wire. Connect the red wire to the “hot” side of the switch/tether and the opposite side of the switch/tether to ground. When the two sides of the device are connected, the charge from the stator is then taken to ground, stopping the engine.

PRECAUTIONS   While nearly all electronic ignitions are resistant to moisture during operation, they will suffer damage if  moisture  is allowed to seep into the windings and from the subsequent corrosion that will occur.  We recommend that after use, the magneto cover be removed to allow any accumulated moisture to evaporate. This is especially true after washing the machine with high powered spray equipment. An added benefit of doing this is that you will be able to spot any other problspot any other problems that have arisen due to a failing seal or bearing. A failed bearing will nearly always result in a destroyed ignition.

PVL Electronic Ignition Components Testing: DO NOT TEST IGNITION COMPONENTS WHEN HOT. ALLOW COMPONENTS TO REACH AMBIENT TEMPERATURE PRIOR TO TESTING! Use a digital Ohm Meter, not an Analog Meter, as it is not specific enough. If you can input range into your meter, set it higher than what the highest reading should be.

Stator Test: Insert either probe into either wire end. For digital stators, using your fingernail, lift the small yellow clip out of the wire end and then insert probe. Resistance readings below, or well above the recommended ranges indicate that the unit is bad. Running units that test slightly higher than the high end of the recommended range can be considered good.